Ups Home Delivery Drivers Might Be Replaced Courtesy Of Ford Motor Company

that'll cut down on the number of drvers over time....

but i don't see trhat actrually happening for maybe another 20 years.

That's what was said about Amazon besides it looks like all it's going to take is automated vehicles to pass legislation and its ready to go
 
How odd, most of the market thinks Ford should work on getting their stock over $10 a share, or at the very least get the spark plugs to stay in, but not so much that they snap off in the head like they do currently.
 
How odd, most of the market thinks Ford should work on getting their stock over $10 a share, or at the very least get the spark plugs to stay in, but not so much that they snap off in the head like they do currently.
can't say for sure about what you just said about spark plugs snapping off, but there are 2 types of plugs to be used. the correct plugs wil have a coating (much like say Anti-sieze) and the other will not, causing THAT one to fuse to the spark plug threads.

although i do believe now, that nearly all spark plugs manufactured have that coating nowadays....(but you still want to check)

another thing too is that when i used to wrench, i told my customers way back then, to NEVER GO to the maximum plug life, before removing them. i'd tell them to come in at say 20,000 miles less than the max miles.

this prevent tearing out the threads in the cylinder head(s)

http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/anti-seize-spark-plug-threads/
 
Spark plugs tend to seize in aluminum heads more than in cast iron heads. I still use some anti seize when installing plugs in aluminum heads. When I was quite young I saw a plug broken off. I was able to grind down the top of some hacksaw blades to where it would go inside the threads of the broken plug. I made some cuts in the threads & was able to get plug pieces out without pulling the head. Screw extractors only expanded the broken plug in the head.
 
The problems were with quite a few years of the Triton V-8s on the blow outs the plugs would take the threads with them making for a costly repair until the after-market sector came up with cutters and new thread inserts, then after that it had a lot to due with the plug design that cause them to break off, new designs have help that, lots of good you-tube videos on the subject.
 
Spark plugs tend to seize in aluminum heads more than in cast iron heads. I still use some anti seize when installing plugs in aluminum heads. When I was quite young I saw a plug broken off. I was able to grind down the top of some hacksaw blades to where it would go inside the threads of the broken plug. I made some cuts in the threads & was able to get plug pieces out without pulling the head. Screw extractors only expanded the broken plug in the head.

yes, the older style did sieze in the heads, but i had found that to be going well past the replacement times.

i think (but cannot swear) that back then, 60,000 miles was the replacement intervals. well before that, a customer would have a tune up yearly and that was (in most instances) about 18,000 miles.

i do remember a customer going about 3 years before he remembered he needed a tune up. i had to use a 1/2 breaker bar to remove the plugs, but that was also, a cast iron head...
i had always used a small amount of anti-seize on either engine i was installing them into. just made for good insurance.


The problems were with quite a few years of the Triton V-8s on the blow outs the plugs would take the threads with them making for a costly repair until the after-market sector came up with cutters and new thread inserts, then after that it had a lot to due with the plug design that cause them to break off, new designs have help that, lots of good you-tube videos on the subject.

yes, i recall that ford had some very angry customers back then. i personally only had the ceramic blow out of "some" plugs, leaving the metal housing still in the head.. it was a simple removal after that...

now, i am leasing my car, a 4 cyl camry. i may keep it at lease end, and buy it, or trade it in for a car that I WILL buy, rather than lease anymore.

i put on very little miles now, in fact, the past few vehicles rarely got past 90,000 miles, (that could be as many as 9-10 years of keeping them) and i trade them in.
so spark plug replacements, will not (or have not) been a concern of mine.

as it is now, you all know my sitiatuion with my back, so bending over the fender or grille to change spark plugs just ain't gonna happen, in spite of the fact, i still have many of my tools...
 
now, i am leasing my car, a 4 cyl camry. i may keep it at lease end, and buy it, or trade it in for a car that I WILL buy, rather than lease anymore.
I'm at some point this year going to start leasing a vehicle, living in Minnesota with the snow, ice and salt I just can't see buying anything new again just to have, I have seen Dodge Ram with some really good lease rates on a fairly well equipped V6 4X4 crew cab model with like 10,000 miles a year which is plenty for me now.
 
I'm at some point this year going to start leasing a vehicle, living in Minnesota with the snow, ice and salt I just can't see buying anything new again just to have, I have seen Dodge Ram with some really good lease rates on a fairly well equipped V6 4X4 crew cab model with like 10,000 miles a year which is plenty for me now.
just BE CAREFUL...they get you in on a low monthly lease...

then they try to get you on tire coverage, paint coverage, scratch and dent coverage

that (say) $200 a month lease, can jump up mto and over $400 REAL QUICK

i denied all extras....i DID have to pay $800 for a new front bumper, when some icehole pushed a shopping cart into it..

but i have had the car for 3 years, this upcoming december, so i saved money in the long run....

just do not think i will be leasing anymore, and if i settle my comp case, i "might" buy my car, since i know it in and out, or jsut buy a brand new one.....don't know yet.
 
continued, cuz i just remembered..

DO NOT PAY FOR remote starter.

the toyota dealer highly recommened i buy it, so that when they sell the car to another person, they can get a better price.

really said that to me..

i looked him square in the eye and said...."I don't give a sh!t about the next customer"...
 
another common problem with ford triton series spark plugs is the extremely long extended tip. it gets caked in hardened carbon and when you unthread the plug, the carboned up tip will seize and snap off in the head.

iirc, you can tell if you are screwed or not, based on the color of the rubber boots on the coil packs. they fixed the problem on the last couple years they were used.

lisle does make a pretty snappy puller to extract broken tips now.
 
My 2 boys were going to "help" old dad out by doing a "tune-up " on his Ranger while we were on vacation, long story short new head, sleeve and piston, inj, ect. and they wondered why they couldn't help with this. didn't need a heater in the garage then
although not your particular situation, but one of many others, is why i got out of wrenching and into something more fun, trucking......yah....riiiight....

constantly trying to tell customers of what was needed and thier constant bickering for discounts, and other such nonsense, like putting off that particular repair..

back in the day, my labor rate was $18.00 per hour, they griped that was too high, when the garage "down the street", was charging $15.00 per hour..

i'd like to see every one of them bastoids today, gripe about the nearly (if not over) $100.00 per hour labor charges now, and if they "put off" the repairs nowadays, like they did way back when.....
 
The problems were with quite a few years of the Triton V-8s on the blow outs the plugs would take the threads with them making for a costly repair until the after-market sector came up with cutters and new thread inserts, then after that it had a lot to due with the plug design that cause them to break off, new designs have help that, lots of good you-tube videos on the subject.

Ford Tritons had cam phaser problems also. Ford diesel pickup customers with the 6.0 diesel head bolt/gasket problems. The 7.3 was a good engine but Ford tried the smaller, lighter route with more boost to make power/torque. Dodge Cummins sales improved greatly because of angry 6.0 Ford owners. Ford did give some extra warranty in some cases which was a one time but not permanent fix.
 
Spark plugs tend to seize in aluminum heads more than in cast iron heads. I still use some anti seize when installing plugs in aluminum heads. When I was quite young I saw a plug broken off. I was able to grind down the top of some hacksaw blades to where it would go inside the threads of the broken plug. I made some cuts in the threads & was able to get plug pieces out without pulling the head. Screw extractors only expanded the broken plug in the head.

Like you, I never replace a plug without anti seize, you'll have less problems by not removing plugs until engine is cold.
On the old VW heads, I drilled the threads and used a stainless heli-coil type insert.
 
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