XPO | Quick dolly question

Pedalpumper

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Hi all, :wavey:
I had my set all hooked up last night, and noticed that the air actuated rod that slides foward against the pintle hook wouldn't energize. I checked all my lines, and the valve button on the dolly, and everything seemed in order.

I was about to break the set apart and go find another dolly, when a veteren driver came walking by.

He told me that the diaphrams sometimes go bad, and that I could just drive it that way. I really didn't feel comfortable doing that.

Then, he did something using the blue button on the dash (for checking trailer brakes), and it energized. He was kind of in a hurry, and didn't really have time to explain what it was that he did.

Not all of our tractors have this blue button either.

Can someone explain what he did, and what is the proper procedure?

This is the first time I've encountered this.
Thanks in advance! :shift:
 
The "blue button", applies the brakes to all wheels, and locks it that way so that you can check your set for air leaks...........much the same as having someone sit in the driver's seat, and hold down the brake pedal........in this case, applying the brakes, actuated the locking device for the pintle hook ram......and, I would not drive the set, if it was not secured, first it isn't very safe, and, second......it is illegal....
 
The "blue button", applies the brakes to all wheels, and locks it that way so that you can check your set for air leaks...........much the same as having someone sit in the driver's seat, and hold down the brake pedal........in this case, applying the brakes, actuated the locking device for the pintle hook ram......and, I would not drive the set, if it was not secured, first it isn't very safe, and, second......it is illegal....

Just the movement of locking the brakes probably got the actuator to move, sometimes they get in a little bind and need a little encouragement to work. Never put your fingers anywhere near these things since when they do actuate and you finger is there, well, good bye finger.

Now, it is not illegal drive it without the actuator working. These are to help with control and to keep the trailer from wobbling around back there. It is safer to have this but not unsafe. Have you ever seen a stakebed with a pintle hook on the back towing a compressor or something of that sort? They don't have air brakes and do not have these devices on their trailers or pintle hooks. Conway is the first company that I have seen that has the actuator on the gear. Every where else they have them built into the trailer. Cost cutting maneuver having them on the gears instead of putting one on each trailer.

Again, it is not illegal to drive it this way.
 
I believe it's called a "snubber valve". It activate when you apply the brakes. Helps keep dolly stable when braking.:TR10driving03:

It should be activated when you release the brakes. That is how you are traveling down the road, brakes released.
 
The snubber should activate whenever you hook you air lines up and release the brakes it stays snug against the pintle hook at all times. if its not working properly red tag the dolly and let us grease monkeys know
 
The snubber should activate whenever you hook you air lines up and release the brakes it stays snug against the pintle hook at all times. if its not working properly red tag the dolly and let us grease monkeys know

:wavey:
10-4, will do.

Thanks to everyone for your replies!

Getting back to that blue (trailer check) button if I may..........

I understand it is the equivelant of someone stepping on the brake pedal for you, but there seemed to be some sort of sequence to the way the driver applied it.

This is what I believe I saw him do, please tell me if I am correct....
Tractor protection (yellow) valve out, trailer protection (red) valve in, Step on brake pedal while pushing blue valve in, and hold both for 10 seconds, walk around and listen for leaks?

Thanks once again in advance. Everyone here has been extremely helpful, and I really appreciate all of your help and advice. :shift:
 
:wavey:
10-4, will do.

Thanks to everyone for your replies!

Getting back to that blue (trailer check) button if I may..........

I understand it is the equivelant of someone stepping on the brake pedal for you, but there seemed to be some sort of sequence to the way the driver applied it.

This is what I believe I saw him do, please tell me if I am correct....
Tractor protection (yellow) valve out, trailer protection (red) valve in, Step on brake pedal while pushing blue valve in, and hold both for 10 seconds, walk around and listen for leaks?

Thanks once again in advance. Everyone here has been extremely helpful, and I really appreciate all of your help and advice. :shift:

After I've got the dolly hooked to kite, I apply "brake check valve". Some trucks you have to apply brakes.When hooking air lines from dolly to kite first. When you take off dummy glad hand you and replace with glad hand from dolly you will know if you have an air leak. You don't need to hooked the set together before applying "brake check valve".
 
:wavey:
10-4, will do.

Thanks to everyone for your replies!

Getting back to that blue (trailer check) button if I may..........

I understand it is the equivelant of someone stepping on the brake pedal for you, but there seemed to be some sort of sequence to the way the driver applied it.

This is what I believe I saw him do, please tell me if I am correct....
Tractor protection (yellow) valve out, trailer protection (red) valve in, Step on brake pedal while pushing blue valve in, and hold both for 10 seconds, walk around and listen for leaks?

Thanks once again in advance. Everyone here has been extremely helpful, and I really appreciate all of your help and advice. :shift:

That is right on. Do it that way and you will not have a problem.
 
After I've got the dolly hooked to kite, I apply "brake check valve". Some trucks you have to apply brakes.When hooking air lines from dolly to kite first. When you take off dummy glad hand you and replace with glad hand from dolly you will know if you have an air leak. You don't need to hooked the set together before applying "brake check valve".

What? What the hell is a kite? Dude, you made an easy process complicated.
 
kite ... rear trailer ... lingo used out east

Well, I just don't get it. Kite used for trailer reference? I had a light load on my front kite but the back kite was empty?:biglaugh: You guys kill me. I guess I need to learn then lango if I want to hang out here. :wtflol::biglaugh:
 
I had never heard of the "Kite" reference either, until I started working at Con-way.

Friday night coming back from a linehaul to XVC, I had to use the heavier trailer as my "kite". It was a P&D pup, and not set up for doubles. Though it was within the 10% weight difference (barely), It was raining and windy, so I took it extra easy. Made for a white knuckle home! :shift:
 
I had never heard of the "Kite" reference either, until I started working at Con-way.

Friday night coming back from a linehaul to XVC, I had to use the heavier trailer as my "kite". It was a P&D pup, and not set up for doubles. Though it was within the 10% weight difference (barely), It was raining and windy, so I took it extra easy. Made for a white knuckle home! :shift:

Yeah, light up front and heavy in the back can yank you around a lot. I had an experience the other night that I could do without. 12000lb. front box and a 7000lb. back box. The front one was really heavy on the tail and all 7000lbs. in the back one was in the nose. I run a two lane roller coaster and that load was yanking me all over the place. It don't always have to be heavy in the back and light up front to make for a white knuckle experience. The old truck I was driving had sloppy steering in it so I am sure if I would have had a cop behind me he probably would have pulled me over. Another drunken truck driver. :TR10driving03:
 
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