What's new

Yellow | Do A Proper Pre-Trip

I'd say you were repeating yourself Big R but you haven't said anything yet:)

In the city fleet mixed bag is right a lot of terminals have assigned tractors some are ex road units some used purchased tractors, some are taken care of inside and out others not so much.
 
Last edited:
Joe D said:
Are the Trucks used for long haul in better shape than the city Trucks? Thinking About working ltl out of Montgomery Illinios.
Click to expand...
Wrench97 said:
I'd say you were repeating yourself Big R but you haven't said anything yet:)

In the city fleet mixed bag is right a lot of terminals have assigned tractors some are ex road units some used purchased tractors, some are taen care of inside and out others not so much.
Click to expand...
say what? Say what? Trying to help the guy out with a picture of line haul units I saw at Montgomery, but cannot get it to load . Maybe later. Maybe later.
 
Hard to believe anyone could install the wrong valve, there are 2 valves that look similar to a inexperienced eye but function totally different,, held next to or even close to each other the differences are pretty obvious, one has a exhaust port on the bottom the other does not.

Goes along with the basics
1 test/inspect
2 repair
3 verify the repair
If the 3rd step was followed it would have been obvious the air cylinder was moving when the brakes were released..........................
 
These are the better drive tires we are now using.
Nt3x3sA.jpg


90qdOs0.jpg
 
valve improperly mounted at Mfg., never corrected per recall (2009), disconnects when "parking" brakes (red button), are released. Also have video, but can't figure out how to attach it. ;)
 
You are correct. And the improper mounting when units were mfg. caused the corroding, and thus malfunction, of these valves. Depending on where plunger decided to stick, determined what malfunction occurred. ALL these valves on Volvos 2005 thru 2008 were improperly mounted. THUS THE RECALL. However there ARE YRCF units STILL in service with the improper mtg., AND units that were ran for years with improperly mounted valves, and then some idiot/idiots decided that, instead of replacing the valves per "the recall", they would JUST bend the mounting bracket,on the already corroded valve, THUS leaving us all to believe the problem was corrected.. WE ALL need to read the "recall notice" s l o w l y, it CLEARLY stated, that IF the valve was improperly mounted, the VALVE WAS TO BE REPLACED, AND the mounting angel was to be corrected, NOT, BEND THE MOUNT, AND all IS GOOD ...
If the valve was already corroded, when idiot, just bent mounting bracket. We are, were, and still drive, these ticking time Bo-bs, until they decide to stick, and malfunction, whenever. I might add that there is a VERY limited paper trail (yellow, roadway, volvo, fmcsa, dot) on all the FACTS that I shared.
 
The one in your picture did not malfunction because of corrosion, it was replaced probably because someone saw some corrosion and flagged it.
The wrong valve appears to have been installed and installed incorrectly to boot.
Another point, the recall was to inspect for corrosion and make sure the valve was pointed down there has never been a recall to replace all valves only one showing signs of corrosion.
While the recall is for all 05 and newer the legacy Yellow tractors have had this valve installed incorrectly since 1999 or when ever they were installed.
 
NHTSA_RCRIT-10V571-9876.pdf Safety Recall Trucks - Vehicle Owners I think if we google this, and read the "recall" s l o w l y, you will see that it does not want the valve to be inspected,,,,,,,, if it is in fact improperly mounted,,,,,(already getting corroded, for 2 to 6 years) IT IS TO BE REPLACED, with a corrected mounting, . i ask,,,,, how many valves are disassembled at ANY of the YRCF shops that any of you have been around? I (driver) have have probably looked at (internally) more than most. pick as many unit #s as you like, and check the unit history.. THE VALVES WERE NOT REPLACED. Only the brackets were "bent", because ALL was GOOD, that day.
 
Sorry, couldn't get pictures to upload. INVERSION VALVE REPAIR

MAINTENANCE.

Every 100,000 miles, 3600 operating hours, or once ev- ery year inversion valves should be disassembled, cleaned, and inspected. Exhaust seat and inlet valve should be checked for nicks or burrs. Inspect all rubber parts for signs of cuts, abrasion, swelling, or damage and replace if needed.

2 TESTING.

The following checks must be made using accurate pressure gauges. It may be easier to remove valves to test them.

  1. (1) Install one test gauge in shop air line. Then connect gauge to control and supply ports of the valve (Figure 1).

  2. (2) Install the other gauge in delivery port.

  3. (3) Raise air line pressure slowly. Delivery gauge should show the same pressure as air line up to 40 psi.

  4. (4) At 40 psi exhaust port must open and release pressure from delivery gauge.

  5. (5) Coat supply, delivery, and exhaust ports with soap solution. No leakage is allowed at sup- ply port. A very small amount of leakage at delivery and exhaust ports is allowed. Ex- cessive leakage indicates faulty inlet valve.

  6. (6) Slowly lower pressure in air line. At 25 psi ex- haust valve must close. Pressure must be shown on delivery gauge.

  7. (7) Remove gauges and air lines. Repair or re- place valve if it failed the above tests.
3 REMOVAL.

  1. (1) Block wheels to hold truck.

  2. (2) Drain service and parking brake air reser- voirs.

  3. (3) Tag and disconnect air lines from valve.0

  4. (4) Remove mounting bolts and valve.
4 DISASSEMBLY.

CAUTION

Be careful when tightening valve in vise. Excessive tightening can dis- tort valve body.

(1) Remove exhaust port cap nut (1) and dia- phragm (2). Remove O-ring from cap nut if used.

8-22-87

614-46, Page 1

NOTE

INVERSION VALVE REPAIR

5

Figure 1. Inversion Valve

  1. (2) Remove diaphragm retainer (3) and piston spring (4).

  2. (3) Remove shim washer (5). Remove piston (6) from body.

  3. (4) Remove piston O-ring (7) and exhaust stem O-ring (8).

  4. (5) Remove supply cap nut (9) and O-ring (10).

  5. (6) Remove valve stop (11) and spring (12).

  6. (7) Remove inlet and exhaust valve (13).
CLEANING AND INSPECTION.

  1. (1) Wash all metal parts in cleaning solution. Rubber parts must be wiped clean.

  2. (2) Inspect all parts for wear or damage.

  3. (3) Check springs for cracks, corrosion, or dam- age.
614

INVERSION VALVE

  1. (4) Inspect piston and its exhaust seat, body bores, and inlet valve for nicks, scratches, or burrs.

  2. (5) Replace any parts failing inspection.
6 ASSEMBLY.

NOTE

Before assembling valve, lubricate piston O-rings and body bore with silicone grease

  1. (1) Install inlet and exhaust valve (13) in supply port of valve body.

  2. (2) Install inlet valve spring (12) and valve stop (1). Center the stop on spring.

  3. (3) Install O-ring (10) on supply cap nut (9). Install and tighten cap nut.
(4) Install piston and exhaust stem O-rings (7 and 8) on piston.

(5) Install piston (6) in body.

(6) Install shim washer (5).

(7) Install piston spring (4).

(8) Install diaphragm retainer (3) and exhaust di- aphragm (2).

(9) Install O-ring on cap nut if used. Install and tighten cap nut (1).

(10) Test valve as described in step b. above.

7 INSTALLATION.

614-46, Page 2

8-22-87

(1) (2)

Mount valve in truck. Tighten mounting bolts securely.

Clean air lines and connect them. Tighten securely.
 
those of you that still hook, or drive prehooked units, might want to use pages 2 and 3, of the recall, , ,as part of your prehook inspection. If you do this on ALL your units,,,,,, YOU will know, just how many of these time bombs, you have been takin to the streets.... U R welcome
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top